The University of Coffee

According to the National Coffee Association, U.S. consumption of coffee now surpasses that of soft drinks. Every day, Americans drink around 350 million cups. With all this consumption comes more sophistication - we're no longer satisfied with a mug of diner dishwater. Starbucks, which has been instrumental in spreading coffee culture (if not universally acclaimed), recently acquired the company that makes high-end Clover machines. (The Clover is responsible for the delicious brew at serious coffee shrines such as Cafe Grumpy.)

But long before there was Starbucks, there was Illy. Founded in 1933, the Italian company is involved in every step of coffee production from the selection of beans to the perfection of espresso machines. Since 1999, Illy has taken on yet another role - that of educator. Illy's University of Coffee, which already includes 11 international campuses, is about to set up shop at New York's International Culinary Center. Classes will begin in February 2009.

I had the privilege of previewing the course, and came away - "chock-full o' information" - and caffeine! The top two baristas in Italy, Giorgio Milos and Michele Pauletic, expertly prepared cappuccinos and espressos for all the students. (I asked Mr. Pauletic, "How long did you study this art?" "Five years!" was his reply.)

The class was divided into morning lectures, complete with slides and movies, and an afternoon hands-on session. Lecture topics included an international history of coffee, production from the bean to the cup, and the physiological effects of coffee. The history lecture was fascinating to me; I learned that coffee was consumed by Yemenite monks as early as the 13th century - it helped them stay alert for prayer. At first, people boiled the green, unroasted beans. Nomads in Africa mixed their crushed beans with animal fat as a sort of trail mix! And here's a bit of cultural trivia; Turkish law once stipulated that a husband's inability to provide enough coffee was - ahem - grounds for divorce.

The history course went on to cover the different types of coffee machines and the foibles of early models. Did you know that the French press was an English invention? Or that espresso machines were once so complex that a barista couldn't even decipher their operation? And with one unfortunate model, levers suddenly hit people in the face, sending them to the hospital. The stove-top espresso pot, invented by Bialetti in 1933, brought coffee-drinking from the cafe to the home. (Here, our instructor digressed, giving us a helpful mini-tutorial: when using a moka pot, don't tamp down the grounds in the filter! And try to pour out the last 20% of coffee, as it's bound to taste burnt.)

The afternoon sessions featured a tasting of 15 espresso blends, and a lesson on how to make the perfect cappuccino. Mr. Milos and Mr. Pauletic created the most beautiful cappuccino art, mesmerizing us with rosettes, leaves and hearts. We learned how to pour the foam to create the best milk canvas for coffee painting - and how to create the best foam! (Some tips: always use whole milk, never reuse the milk, and if there are visible bubbles instead of an even, velvety white layer, it's wrong!)

Mr. Milos reminded us that the perfect cappuccino requires the perfect espresso, and he taught us about all the variables to create it: the amount of coffee, water temperature, water pressure, time of extraction, amount of water, and tamping technique. We also learned about the four important components of coffee beans: bitterness, acidity, sweetness and aroma. (Did you know that when roasted, a coffee bean quadruples in aromatic elements? Or that Ethiopian beans are added to sweeten a blend?)

This morning, after my customary stove-top espresso, I Googled "how to make a good espresso." There were 5,270,000 results; something tells me there's going to be a lot of interest in the University of Coffee.

The International Culinary Center: 462 Broadway, (888) 324-2433.